Torsten, how did you make your way into mens style?
My interest in classic style menswear began in high school, partly because I’m tall. That makes it deficult to find well-fitting items off-the-rack. The world of the suit is more flexible in regards to body shapes than fast fashion.
You also run “Grunwald” a Webshop specialized in handpicked items from some of the leading makers in Europe. What was you motivation to enter the retail-business?
To make a buck and to learn about running a webstore. Moreover, I enjoy providing tools to men, who care about style. Especially I like selling vintage cloth for bespoke orders at the tailor.
Talking about personal style. What do you consider as style and what are your suggestions for a mens wardrobe?
From a methodological point of view, I think great style comes from mastering six dimensions: Cut, colours, patterns, textures, occasion and personality. You should start with occasision and personality, when building a wardrobe. You have to consider down-to-earth what fits your way of living, and whats makes you feel comfortable.
What do you think about dresscodes? Still helpfull or needless?
Unwritten dresscodes are still very much alive. Today they point to more informal clothes. Personally, I don’t like to obsess about dresscodes. Great style style doesn’t come from reproducing dresscodes but rather from the six dimensions I spoke about above.
Are there golden rules?
Following rules means you leave yourself behind. It doesn’t work, if you want to dress really well. I like idiosyncrasies more than rules. Idiosyncrasies can be a pillar of style.
Do you have contemporary archetypes of style?
I have readers, who in my mind dress with style, for instance Jeppe and Mads. I also think that Lino Ieluzzi and Luca Rubinacci master the art of dressing with style. Personally, I would not dress like Lino or Luca. I dress more conventionally. Yet, you have give our Italian friends that they have a feel for clothing.
When it comes to bespoke tailoring there is always much noise about Naples and London. Let us know about the tailors and other makers in Denmark.
The sartorial situation in Denmark is not encouraging, unfortunately. We have two or three bespoke tailors, who can make a fine suit, but the result cannot equal top tailoring from England, France, Italy, Spain or Germany. In regards to crafts the strongest tradition in Denmark is pipe making. We have some of the world’s very best pipe makers. The leather craft is also interesting. There are some skilled makers around.
Compared to other european countries: Is there a difference in the way men in Denmark dress?
Denmark is known to be an informal and not very hierarchical country. That is a virtue in many ways. Sadly, such a culture doens’t produce many well dressed men, if you like the art of the suit.
The small specialized tailors, shirtmakers and shoemakers seem to vanish. So called Luxury-Brands dominate the scene. Is your shop a contribution to keep those small makers visible?
I hope so.
Who are your favourite makers ?
I’m afraid I cannot designate a favourite maker. My experience is that my opinios change over time. However, I would like to mention the makers that I’ve tried in Germany: bespoke tailor Volkmar Arnulf in Potsdam and bespoke shoemaker Benjamin Klemann in Hamburg. German craftsmen don’t get much press compared to Italian, English and now also French and Spanisk makers. Weird, because craftsmen like Arnulf and Klemann are world-class, I can assure you that.